Sam Egan is one of Austraila's best shapers. I've seen many of his boards and never saw a bad one.
If you are thinking of taking up surfing because of something I may have wrote here. Please don't, it's too dangerous with all the sharks and things.
There are pleanty of surfers already, and we don't need another.
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Helpful Hint: on Wax
For those who either reach in the wrong drawer and grab the hard base coat wax instead of the soft cold water stuff. Keep you wax along with it's original lable in a zip tight baggy and confusion is less likely to fallow.
Boy I hate it when I do that. Rule No. 4
Helpful Hint:
Traction Pad or Not to Traction Pad
I never did get around to putting a traction pad on my MBM. For two reasons. One, the shaper kinna screwed this board up and gave the right side a little more rocker in the tail. (But I happen to think it fits my skill level more since that means less rocker on my back side.)
I've also know that gum sole booties tend to stick to wax better than to traction pads, since the MBM is my winter board I kept it clean and put the pad on my Whip.
Feb. 16th, '09: Pray for waves on the central coast. I kick myself in the ass for not going out two Thursdays ago, because we've haven't seen much since. We're all jonzin here folks.
Oct 6th, '08: Was the best waves we had in months. I got a floater of a lip on an asume right and I almost got covered on a long rippling hollow left. I was set up; a guy pattling out said it was only a couple feet behind me.
Oct 4th, '08:
It's Saturday today; Thursday and Friday we had 3-4 foot swell and tomorrow it's suppose to be 7-12.
I've surfed three days in a row. Thursday I surfer my MBM in good over head stuff. But Friday the swell had droped some so I took out my Quad and actually got better rides than the day before even though the waves didn't look as good. Had a kook on a $800 Firewire screw up the bottom
of my Quad. Get this: the fool who wares a berd with dark hair and red striped booties was paddling out behind me,
and what do you think a couple set waves did? Yeah put me right on top
of the idiot. I asked him if he'd like to buy my board. It was mint and
it cost me $700.00
Tomorrow, lets hope my MBM comes back as it goes out.
August 14th, '08:
It's been pretty small the last week. Today I took out my Funboard at the Rock this morning. I tried a couple F-3 fins with the rear grip fin from my K2.1-Blue Dots.
The surf report showed that the chest high waves were about the best we were going to see until Saturday.
There was a couple walled up late take-offs, I wished I'd taken out my Quad, but I have to say that the board loosened up A LOT, and I like it a lot better.
It was fun. I shoulda went bare foot.
Maybe Saturday, with my MBM?
I think it's about time to put on the new traction pad?
Yeah, gotta go..
July 9, 2008:
I ended up having the jetty all to myself for over 3 hours in chest high waves with my quad.
My quad is such a kick in the ass to ride in the smaller waves; it just shreds the hell out of them.
Oh yeah, I switched over to my 3-2 Guru, with my vest. Kinna helps my arms move faster.
June 21, 2008:
Got to try out my MBM with Victor II FJC1-460's today at killers. I still had the stock AM1-450 fin in the rear. However even though the 460's are just a hair bigger with a little more cant than my Quad's R1-454's, they where still loose and pivital as the 454's. Next time I'll try the 460 rear fin.
Had a fireman show up with phoney rumors in the line up. Gee, wanna be heros. I could live without them. What a moron.
Dec. 29th '07: Had my third session on my new MBM, w/454 Victor II fins. It was over head and I was just amazed at how nice this board is. It's mild rocker helps it plane through mushy sections without slowing down. And the rocker in the tail, just makes it so pivital. It's not at all afraid of a steep vertical face, it just thrives on it.
Sept. 22,'07: I got my best wave of all summer today, just south of MB.
It actually stay over head for more than half the wave and I got to do at least three types of maneuvers. Up the face turn and drop, fast whipin fishtail and up the face into a turn-back, and then a few horizontal full face drops.
Nice long ride. Could have gone with no booties.
July 29, 07: I left Oceanside and moved to San Luis Obispo county on the central coast. There is less crowds, but the water is much colder. My 3/2 Guru just doesn't cut it. I've got to pull on the 4/3 Psycho II.
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The spectators on the central coast
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Put a leash on that puppy and burn your old longboard.
You're going to learn to shread if you hang with me.
June 25th, '07: we had a westerly 3 ft. It was pretty clean in the early morning. The new board sure likes to turn off the lip and play around in the pocket, white water anything. It's like a tracker with drive. It's amazing, but not as preditable as my Flyer II. But a few more sessions should straighten that ill minded thought out.
It's been nice only having to ware my 2 mil short sleve Guru.
I got fired for going surfing this morning. Boy, I thought that was way out of line.
Feb. 11 '07: We got some that we (very few of us,) got some waves that were well over head this morning. Not many out, and nobody in the way. They were kinna narly. I had to keep my knees soft because of the chop, but there was plenty of face and a whole lot of drop. Quite the thrill. I had a blast.
You're dreaming Sunnyside
April 10th '07: they called it a south 4.5 at 19 sec.
I was stupid and went out the first session with my small rear fin made for three footers. A little loose and I hooked a rail on a steep left, but I managed to get a good right.
I broke a leash and boy did I get hammered on that one. I almost got to my board before it got raked across the rocks, (good thing it fliped upside down right before land, I was sure glad it wasn't my gun.)
On my second session with the K fin on back, I got a left to remenber the day by. I saw a guy get covered and he came out. I got covered and didn't.
Hah, didn't see any longboards except in the parking lot.
There yah go
Something tells me that she didn't even surf that board in the move.
I read about Cameron and Kelly going golfing and stuff in Hawaii
I have a feeling that Kelly just about wanted to throw that plank into the nearest bon-fire.
Yeah, no sh__. He can even keep a short board going in that small slop.
More Girl of the Day pictures
Camron Diaz
Yeah, nice board Andy, but I lost my job for not showing up for work after you sold me the last one.
Feb. 14th, '07 they were head high wind swell junk. But I manged to get a few good turns on a couple of them.
It was a short session.
Feb.15'07: It was 2 ft. at the cave. When I arrived, I head a guy tell the other. "I'd be taking out that funboard if I were him."
I did, but it still wasn't much fun.
Feb 16th we got almost 3 ft swell, but the tide was too high.
Hay, first day without booties.
I guess I got covered on the inside reform.
My knee sure got slamed into the deck and I got tumbled while tangled with my board. I had to check my board; that epoxy stuff holds up pretty good sometimes.
Feb. 17 '07: Boy was that two or three foot. What ever it was, it was a crowed. Everybody was getting in each other's way.
Look like the spring weather popped the bikinis out.
I saw that the surf shop had a 6'4" x 19" MBM in, but some moron put a pressure dig under the rail. I wish I could get that board with a little more concave in a Tuff light
Feb. 19: Junk out there. I realized that I was wrong a few days ago when I thought my board smacked me in the forehead. It wasn't the forehead at all, it was my lower left temple. It was swollen yesterday and still a bit tender today.
May 22 and 3rd, we finally got some sizeable waves. It had been pretty lame for weeks.
May 27th '07 got some clean 2.5 out of the sw. Good for the fun board.
May 6th, the waves sucked and we haven't had any for about a week now. I put the 4/3 psycho II in the storage unit . Other guys are already wairing short sleve .
I've got a new set of fins, I'm using, but I don't have pictures of them yet.
I use his combo to make my Flyer II it looser in 3 ft. waves. I carved one down even smaller than the standard K-Dot tail fin. In bigger surf, 4 foot and up, I use the standard K-Dot tail fin.
Update: I made some smaller than fins for the side and now I use the only use the blue dot rear fin. Now I've got it dialed in.
More update: the Flyer II expired on the 4th of July.
Saturday the 24th of Feb. '07 It called for 5 ft at 9-11, but I think it was more like 3.5-4 at about 6-9. It was so crowded that it wan't worth even going out. When the tide shifted at low tide, it lost all the push.
March 2nd & 3rd the waves had finally cleaned up from the wind blown storm. It was only 2.5 ft. The 2nd wasn't to hot, the 3rd was better. It was funboard material.
Jan. 18th "07: The waves have been blown out nothing the past week or so.
But it did give me wind to fly my --
F-20 TigerShark.
January 24, 2007: Gee what is it with the wave gods. Are they angry with us and giving us this 2 foot at 4 seconds sh__.
Dec. 12,06:
Got a new 4/3 psycho II today.
I paddled out yesterday when I didn't expect much out of the overhead mushy waves. The paddle out at Camp grounds and it was a bitch to get out; then once I was out there, the waves were so mushy, they were hard to read as to just where the spot was. Then my leash broke. I had to swim all the way back in. Not even one wave. I hung it up for the day.
January 26, 2004: AM, Sounds like Dana Point will be a little crowded today. I guess they got 4ft. @ 11 seconds. The Island are blocking therm here. I'm going to check Solona & Cardiff.
Update: Boy for almost an hour, it seemed like the paddling never stopped. I'd show up at the line up and turn into a wave that would go all the way into the inside. I'd make it back out and I'd catch another one. They were mushy at chest high, but some head high sections were in there.
On the 27th, I ran out of propane and had no shower or brakefast, by the time I got everything together, it was blown out.
Jan 28 we had some 2.5-3 SW swell in Carlsbad, kinna walled up the first 1 1/2 hour, then later at a lower tide I got a few with some walls to climb
M&D Warning
(under Blood and Guts class)
Check out this You Tube film clip.
These Aussies are insane.
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Adrenalin: what sports are all about
March 23, 2010:
Here's my main quiver now days.
My new addition: the Whip has an extra eighth inch of foam and Future fin pockets with Victor AM 450's on the sides and a FAM1 - 460 on the rear.
One thing I noticed is that it is a loose feeling board, kinna like a snowboard, I'm able to slide on the rails if I surf with my front foot. It sure likes the pocket
and has no problem getting
there. It's quite the radical board so far.
Monday the 19th of April, I waited around all day for the waist high swell to clean up, and it did. So I took out my funboard just to get wet. Not only should I have noticed that the swell was at least chest high, but the wax on the 6'10" funboard was ancient. Boy what
a miserable session, I have the worst sense of balance that board. I should have paddled in and fetched my Whip. I gotta sell that thing.... I would like to get either a 6'8" or a 7'0" M-3 in a tuff-light to replace it. I'm thinking that the 7'0" would make a good longboard for me, but I bet a 6'8" would be a way hotter board.
Helpful Hint:
For when you know that someday your leash will catch on your heal pad and rip it off. I trim mine. I'm also accustomed to a 7 ft leash which eliminates most of the chances that the leash will even snag it. I'm thinking of trying a 6 ft leash on the 6'2" this summer, it may help with keeping my board out from under some other guys board.
Too many visitors at the rock
March 1, 2010:
He's back
I heard longboarders taste just like chicken
December 19, '09:
I ordered my Christmas present to myself today. It's going to be a Channel Islands 6'2" Whip with an extra 1/8" of foam on the deck. I also ordered it custom because that is the only way you will find them with Future fin pockets. I like Victor fins better and have acquired a decent collection of them and the assortment will help in getting the board dialed in. Kinna scary because its going to be the shortest board I've ever
surfed.
I'm getting it to take the place of my quad in medium sized waves. My quad was great for Oceanside where it became my main board, but here on the central coast my MBM has become the most used board, most of the time.
In about two months, I figure the waves will be dropping in size a bit and a 6'2" Whip should be the thing to have.
Today the swell was suppose to be about 8' and offshore winds most of the day. I had a hell of a time paddling out at the P______ . It took me two tries to make it out. I felt like an ass when I passed up the two good waves, one after another, just as I made it out after paddling for about a half hour. I didn't think my arms had the strength to push myself
up on the board right then. I let them pass and hoped that the guys down the
line might catch one, but there they were setting and looking at me as if I was crazy. (Discovering that the pickings for waves were pretty slim.)
It wasn't long before I dropped in a nice left that rolled in from from the south. It marched in towards me and as I passed the other guys down the line, it seemed like every thing was in slow motion as I passed guys who seemed like buoys spread out among the large faced wave.
Once past them, I pulled
a cut back and put myself in the pocket of a nice hollow section that took me all the way into the inside.
It was one of those good ones and my MBM was just the kind of board to have.
(The next paddle out was more reasonable.)
December 10, '09:
I finally got a new 2010 PhychoFreak 4.5/3.5 a couple weeks ago. For 2010 the used super stretch in the arm, shoulder and lower legs. They are warm, but not so bulky and easier to put your foot through. Soooo nice.
Had a jerk on a longboard run over my MBM today.
I don't know what it is with those idiots. Longboards don't even belong in wave that are over head. They're just obsolete planks designed for waist to chest high waves.
If I'm bouncing around on my 6"5", something like a longboard is really going to bounce and it's about a 60% chance they aren't even going to make the first bottom turn. Like this guy to day, he takes off way early and out runs the wave and thinks he can come around the peak from right to left where I'm paddling into the wave and it's about to crash on him while I'm dropping in.
I find myself tangled up with his plank and he goes, "that could have been deadly." I said, "It's more like your plank is bashing the hell out of my board."
I think it should be against the law to surf a longboard if you are under the age of 55. It pisses me off when I see a guy half my age on a longboard. I learned on a 7'1' and see no reason why anyone would need to learn on anything longer than a 7'6". Longboards may be easy to get up on but they don't turn worth a damn and they create bad habits.
However there is and exception for those rare guys who manage to rip on them just as I can recall a guy up at Moonstone about a year ago. (He never even tried to snake me.)
Most guys on longboard look as though the board is taking them for a ride and they are always trying to catch there balance, (at the bottom of the wave and it seems like just a waste of perfectly good wave.
So take my advice, paddle like a man and learn how to take the drop on a short board, because if you are younger than me, you may just look like a big pussy on a longboard.
Sept 24, '09:
The other day I discovered Keenan Reeser was out with us. I could tell she wasn't the type to be out there socializing. The only wave I saw her catch was on the inside and I was looking over the back of the wave from down the line.
One thing that bugs the shit out of me is freeloaders. Like when I catch a wave fairly early, make my bottom turn and then off the top of the lip I discover I picked up some guy from the inside. He's too late, and he's trying to get around the white wash. I'm trying to keep coasting on the lip wondering if he's going to make it. Of course he doesn't but it's too
late for me because I've pooped out my momentum and slipped over the back of the wave. It's like damn you idiot, you are on my f____ing wave and in my way, you damn freeloading idiot.
Sept 13, '09:
The last four or five months have been slim pickings. The locals have began to think that I only paddle out when it's big. Two days ago, I saw some small waves that seemed like it would be a good idea to pull the funboard out of the garage. So Saturday morning I did just that. Then I pull up to the shore and saw waves that were between double and triple over head. The tide was bit too low and the swell was a little junky. However, by evening the tide
was right and I hit the water.
I don't know of any celebrity who surfs anything under a 7 ft. board other than Shane Pean. So I discount the others, but I wonder if they have the same problem as I do. Everyone seems know who I am (the stupid rules guy,) and they all talk as though they want to see me catch a wave. As result I have to try to get some space by myself because they tend to
group around me if I sit in one place. (Maybe I just imagine this.)
Then when a wave comes up to me, they forget about watching me and they paddle over towards me and steal my wave. Kinna sucks actually because I find myself paddling around trying to get way from them and I end up being paddled out by the time I get in the tight spot to take a wave late. Often I end up sitting on the inside too far just trying to get some distance. When they are big, you tend to get washed more than anything. That was exactly what happen
most of Saturday
evening.
Sunday morning we had a visitor. Too bad he didn't stick around for some more crowd control.
It's not my falt, we were breeding stupid people for about a decade before I was born, so as soon as the tide came up, I went out too.
Just a local girl - for now
July 3rd '09:
I have come across a story about a local surfer that I feel warrants posting a feature about her. Her name is Keenan Reeser from Avila Beach.
She's a 17 years old and has only been surfing for three years, (they say).
Anyhow, in the last year or so, she has traveled up and down the coast entering amateur women's surf contest and has managed to win the Western Surfing Association Open Woman's Championship.
I get a kick out of the fact that in a surf contest in Morro Bay, there wasn't any other girls to show up so they put her in with the junior boys where she made it through a few heats and ended up in the finals where she got second place.
A local surfboard sharper Shane Stoneman and Central Coast Fiberglass has stepped up to supply her with a quiver. Esteem Surf Company and Creo Haircare products has stepped up to sponsor the young talented girl too. I guess she doesn't have to worry about hair care products and her parents don't have to fork out so much money for cloths and wet-suits either.
I Googled her name in an effort to find an image of her surfing, but her Facebook is set to private and her new web-site is just one image. However I did send her a friends request along with the request for a couple images of her to post on this Adrenalin page.
Like me she likes to surf in warmer water, and I also had to join the "I Hate Stupid People" group on FaceBook that she belongs to.
Way to go girl, I'm proud of you.
Rule Number 1
April 2, '09: The last month, hasn't brought much for waves. However the other day I thought I'd go out for a few, but my Psycho II 4-3 has only about 1 mil left in the ass and leaks all over. So I drug out the old Hotline Brauny 5/4 from the early 90's. It's from the year where they came out with the flap that goes over your head so that the cross the chest zipper doesn't flush you so much. Well like an idiot, I had cut the flap out when I was
in Santa Cruz about 7 years back.
To my surprise, I had no idea about how much those zippers leaked and how much water sloshed around your back. How much you needed a bigger board to handle the extra weight. And not to mention the extra youth just to paddle arounds in those things. Hell you can get slamed by a wave and it doesn't even toss you around very much because it seems like you're a bit anchored there. The reality of it all made me realize just how determined a surfer had to be back in those
days.
The reason wrote this is that I wanted to mention how much lighter and more flexible wetsuits have revolutionized the way we surf today. At least for me, just after a few waves with this fortress of a wet suit, I realized just how much my surfing has evolved over the years. I found myself using my hips vigorously just trying to get the board to turn fast. My upper body was just something I was trying to balance above all the action below me instead of something I swing
around as part of a maneuver.
Thank God for better wet suits, and I pray that I can get a new one soon because my surfing will be compromised if I'm stuck with the old school.
The Bottom line rules apply here are
Rule Number 1 and Rule Number 16
as for the in the olden days.
Kinna like my truck -verses- your motorized horse and buggies.
On the Michael Phelps apology
What is this world coming to when full grown man has to show up on my TV and apologizes for smoking some pot. Hell, they guy who took the picture and sold it is the one who should be apologizing.
Now the
cops in South Carolina are harassing people who where at the party
where the bong hit took place. The bullies with badges are arresting
people as they seek to make a case against the gold mentalist.
A
couple lawyers who represent a person who was arrested with the use of
a search warrant have been accused of having a small amount of
marijuana. They said the questions asked by the cops were not about where they got
the pot or who sold it to them, but mostly Michael Phelps.
Boy, those cops need to get a life.
And Michael Phelps doesn't need to apologize to anyone.
But you've got to admit, he was pretty stupid to do such a thing at a public gathering.
(Kinna reminds me about the Red Tomato snowboarder dude, after the Olympic games.)Feb.13, '09
(Update - July 6,'09: Looks as though Subway doesn't care if Michael Phelps is a pot smoker. I get a kick out of the song that is being played during the cammercial. )
November 14, '08: Well this month, the funboard went into storage and the gun came out. This month has finally brought some days with solid overhead waves.
Today, I woke up to on shore funk, but there was some size there. Then at about 10.00 am, the winds swung to off shore. I paddled out at the Rock on my MBM. There was a bit of side shore wind from the north and it began to howl. However I landed a few. The one to remember was one of those fluky lefts that just goes on forever. After getting blown over the lip while trying to do one of those vertical moves the MBM likes so much. The next one I realized the wind was slowing
me down so I just squatted down low and pumped it. It was so fast that I felt like I was going 50 mph and I actually began to out run the thing. However, a cut back put me back into the pocket and I pumped it all the way to the Pit. Hell, I could see the lifeguard towers in the back. To say the least, it was a long paddle back to the corner.
Oh yeah, I took the rear 460 Victor fin off and put the stock 450 plain janer back on. Loosened it back up to where I like it. (Still have Victor 460s on front.)
On Sept. 7, '08: A local guy in Lompoc named Kyle was lucky enough to see a shark cruzing around him. He decided to see if the shark would like his new Proton and cramed it into the mouth.
I'm sure the surfers don't want any more bodies in the water in north Santa Barbara county, but the sharks wouldn't mind if you paid them a visit.
Must have been a pretty big Great White
May 5th'08 It's getting kinna sharky out there.
I happen to think that it has a lot to do with these shark tours where they take divers on boat trips to swim among sharks. Surfers in south Australia are getting a little pissed off about these tours because the tour boats toss over feed to attract the sharks and now sharks are starting to identify humans as a source where food comes from.
I've got these two links to BBC which covers a fatal shark attack in the nice little town of Ballina Australia where Peter Edmonds 16, was killed by a shark. (I visited the nice small town Ballina a couple times. It's a beautiful
place.)
Pro surfer Jodie Cooper of Australia got bit on the hand by about a five foot long shark as she was paddling at Golden Beach. She compared it to a dog bite and can't wait until she can go back out.
A swimmer at Swamis in North San Diego around where I used to surf just got killed by a shark.
Christmas came a little early this year
Dec. 15th was my first day back in the water since I cut my finger about two months earlier. I needed something to replace my Flyer II that I broke on July 4th '07.
I'd been wanting a MBM for awhile.
Looks sexy dosen't it?
One thing for sure, the stock AM1-450 fins sure didn't want to let it turn, but it was fast. It's the thinest board I've ever owned . Taking off late and gravity is about the only thing that helps.
On Dec. 22nd, the waves were about 4ft and just over head a the beginning. Good waves though. I swaped out the stock side fins for the two front fins from my quad. They are foiled ;Victor II R1 454 and they really changed the board for the better. The MBM is great board. It loves the vertical face and it's much more commandable then the Flyer II it replaced.
No wonder why so many pros surf this thing. It's supposed to be one of the harder one to ride, with about the highest skill level suggested but I guess I'm not as lame as I think I am. One thing for sure, if you can ride this board well, you'll be able to stread. I just can't wait until I get back in shape and get used to it even more.
Dangerous
waves
I don't know Jeff, there is a reason they call it hazardous
For more Surfing pictures - Click here on this one
My birthday present came a month late this year.
For more pictures and information on my
Flyer Quad-Surfboard click on the specs:
First off, I'm not really into ball sports. Like when the Chargers lost their chance at the play-offs, I thought it was great because I was already tired of all the news coverage on them. It's kinna silly how people think of them as their heroes. I'd just assume watch golfing, if it wasn't for all the car commercials.
If I watch football, it doesn't matter who is playing who. It's just a game on TV.
Basketball and Baseball just bores me.
However, I'm a extreme sports fan.
I dig skateboarding, snowboarding and MX Bikes. Moto-cross and Freestyle moto-cross is just sick.
And now snow sking in a bowl. It's fast and they sure can get air easy.
Golf is pretty much one of the very few honest sports left; Over the years I've become more and more turned on by the thought of playing golf someday.
There
doesn’t seem like any way to cheat at it as there is in many other sports out there now days.
I played putt-putt
once.
I didn't do too bad.
If you are thinking of taking up surfing because of something I may have wrote here. Please don't, it's too dangerous with all the sharks and things.
There are pleanty of surfers already, and we don't need another.
Some of you may wonder why I mount my traction pads a little bit farther forward than most. Well first off: being 6'4" thru 6'10"; they are 4-6" longer than probably the average short board that I see around me. But I Also have taken notice that if a surfer mounts the traction pad too far back,the leash has
a lot of opportunity
to tare the heal plate up.
6' 10" x 20" 6' 6" x 18-3/8" 6' 6" x 19-1/4"
The 6'10" I a good summer board. but as soon as it hits 3 ft. I pretty much hate it because it doesn't turn like a short board should. The 2.1 Blue Dote fin set help alot, but I ended up trimming down the stock G-7000s and it dose much better now.
The 18 3/8" is something I seldom ride unless the waves are overhead and square. It's is thin, concaved and has a lot of rocker, but it has such a light glass job on it, I'm afraid of dinging it every time I ride it.
The Flyer II is (Terminated), it's a Surf Tech, Tuff Light surfboard and sometimes I kick my self in the butt for not getting a 6'3".
The second day with it, it was real crowded out there and I was going for some wave a little bit later then I should have. The tip bounced off my arm and peeled the tip back and impaled the broken epoxy fiber in to my chin. Part of it is still in there. Stupid Rule Number 82
Update: It expired on the 4th of July '07 It got rolled off the lip and my feet went out. I came down on my back landed on the bottom of it from the top of the overhead wave. It's kinked; it's got the case of a double rocker going on.
So I wanna be
Excerpt From : Burning Down the House
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