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Adrenalin: what sports are all about.

December 25, 2011

My Quad got Synchro-Graphics for Christmas.
Since its so pivotal, I felt it was one I might need some kind of game plan mapped out. The left is better than the right, but I might need some help with my backside; so.
The instructions for the MBM is simply, the bigger the wave, more the back foot.

January 30th, 2012:
Stonman's turn
Just as with my MBM; when I cleaned it up to paint, big waves arrived so I got dragged by the Stoneman, but at least I got waves. But when the wave are small and no juice, the quad just doesn't get it.
Realisation is that my main boards are for going vertical and the Stoneman is the ones I need when things are more horizontal. So it pretty much maps out the game plan for the Synchro-graphics it's about to get.
Man, I love this new UV cure resin with micro fibers, they got in a tube now. I have to pat the guy on the back that put that shit together.

After 25 years on patching the old way....

January 14th, 2012:
Maybe not so luckly....
I had to sleep on only one side last night. Which means I didn't sleep much. However, all that added up to was being one of the first in the water this morning. So maybe there was some Good Luck in there some where. Would have been luckyer if I'd taken the Stoneman
Anyway, I think I like the looser MBM with the Victor 450's all the way around. (More like my Whip was.) So there's some good luck because the Stoneman is more stabble with the 460's all the way around.
Now if I'm really lucky, maybe I can come up with the money to get my Quad's broken fin replaced.

January 13, 2011

     I feel like I need to put my foot in my mouth at times. Like the last week of December. We got a bunch of crap. It when to three weeks with head high wave, to big close outs.
     I got my share of getting pitched off the top. One time I was late and the lip pitched me and my board, but we somehow got separated and I reached out and grabbed the rail. The ten to twelve foot drop was enough distance for me to place the board under my feet. It surprised the hell out of me. Now I've fallen a couple times onto my board and got back out in the same wave; several times before, but doing something like those freestyle motocross guys do, is something I don't think I'll be doing too often.
     Anyhow, It's been a blast the last couple sessions to be back on my Quad in a lighter wet-suit again. The thing makes me feel like a kid; being so pivotal and all.
     Rule 77: Today, I ran up a closing peak and decided to put a spin on it as I shot over the lip. Well my board hooked the lip and kept spinning around me and stabbed me in the back.
     Sadly boards don't just get bruises that just go away on their own, because as I got in, I discovered that my leash had broke the tip of a rear fin off. Screwed up the glass work around the pocket a little too. So it's clean and hanging up in the ceiling of my shop for the next day or two to make sure the moister is gone before I inject a little bit of resin in there.
     I know it will sound funny but the new paint job seems to make the board work better. But really, I realize it probably just feels like a new board when I'm riding it, but one that I'm used to.

December 13, 2011
     My MBM got Synchro-graphics.
     My Tooler got a few daisies.
     And I got a new wet suit
     Wouldn't you know, as soon as I had it masked off, overhead waves arrived. Had to get draged by the Stoneman more than I wanted to. But hey, you wouldn't believe some of the waves I've been getting.
     the first week of the month, I surfed five days, most about head high. Last Saturday was the big day and I surfed my MBM. With the exception of today and the day before yesterday; it seemed like every session had a wave or two of what I would call an high scoring wave.
     I have no doubt that there are people paying attention to my surfing and with the waves I've been getting, they sure have had something to talk about.
     I can honestly say that I'm a bit proud the other guys have to say about my surfing and their experience surfing with me, but it does add some pressure on a person in my position. I tend to be a little more apprehensive when it comes to me being the one at running over someone. But lately, I've taken a more daring approach of finding a path around and or though a bunch of bodies; instead of shutting it down and playing safe, hoping that there will be another wave without people in the way. (By the way.... if you are in the water in the path of someones wave, please, just get paddling out of the way. Don't just sit there like a bump on a log.)
     And I want to apologize to those who I've managed to find myself in your way; we all know it is bound to happen a times.
     I've been thinking of the gang I used to surf with back in Westport so many years ago. Jim, Mark, Gram, Abner, Lee, Tom Decker and the rest. I'm willing to bet they would freak at the monster I've become at times. Even after I bought the seven two they thought I'd improved allot. But if I was to say anything to them now. I'd say I should have bought the six eight.

December 10th, 2011:
Christmas came early this year. Got a 32 gb chip for my MB3. And after another lousy session with chillin genitals, I when to my shop and pulled the Baltierra down from rack and then drove down to Wavelengths and traded it in on a new 4-3 Mutant. I just had to put an end to the suffering.
Oh yeah: my MBM is getting a makeover too.

December 4rd, 2011:
Gee three days in a row. I surfed the Stoneman with a 450 on back today. I don't know, I'm still up in the air with it so the next session I'll have to try the 460 on back, which I think makes it more stable, but I figure after I get used to the board, I'll probably want to loosen it up a bit. Who knows? Anyhow, it was the perfect thing to have this morning because they were good size about chest to head high, but super mushy. However I managed to pick off a couple with descent wedges to allow for a cut back and a few up and downs. What's great about this board over the fun board is that even though it's a tank, it surfs like a short board.

December 3rd, 2011:
     Got a few sessions in on the Stoneman this week. Last Monday I tried it with Victor II FAM1 450's (that came with the expired Whip,) all the way around, it was way too loose and I spun out a few times. Then yesterday I tried Victor II FJC1 460's on front with FAM1 450's on the rear (The same combo I use on my MBM,)and it managed more like a short board should without that boaty feel.
    Today I used 460's all the way around, but I think it was a little stiff.
    What I'm hoping now to happen, is to have the Victor II FAM1 450's that came with the Whip work good on my MBM because switching fins back and forth isn't my thing.
    The Stoneman doesn't slide into waves as easy as my old funboard did. Nor does it nose ride as well. But the Stoneman sure handles the vertical situations a lot better; (the funboard was a little scketchy when it came to late drop-ins.)
    I've noticed a side effect of going vertical as I tend to do on my MBM: is the stress cracks. I'm not sure if the Stoneman had them when I got the board, but it's got a couple now. (My BMB has way too many to count.)
    Reguardless, I think that with our less than ideal conditions around here, the Stoneman will get some use out of it.

shane stoneman surfboard

November 1st, 2011: 30th, 2011:
6' 3" Quad in faster waves with a two mil suit on can be a blast. But put a 20 year old 5 4 Barony wetsuit on, you're going to be seriously under gunned in mushy surf. Then my shoulder doesn't like to paddle the Funboad so today I swapped the Funboard for a 6'9" X 20 1/2" X 2 11/16" thruster shaped by local shaper Shane Stoneman. It was probably custom shaped for a guy who weighs over 200 pounds. At first I liked it because it was looked something like an Al Merrick M13. Since a M13 was what I've been wanting all along for a replacement for my Funboard; I decided to look into it.
But now that I have a chance to look at it from the perspective from lying on the floor and looking up at the ceiling, with my MBM on one side and the Stoneman on the other. The more it looks like a bloated MBM, (compare to the photo of my MBM at about 80% down this web page) I happen to think it has a lot less foam than a M13. The rails are fairly thin and quite similar to the MBM; but there is a lot of foam stashed in the middle of it. Looking down at the nose, it appears to lack nose rocker, even though from the side it looks to be sufficient.

Shane Stoneman surfboard 6ft. 9in.

     Much lighter than the Funboard and it has Future pockets. My first session today, Nov.2,'11 was with Victor 450's in front and a Victor 460 on back. I expected it to be quite loose, but it wasn't that at all. However I only had and hour in heavy offshore winds with mushy close outs. I did manage to pull into a couple and get my back washed.
     Oh yeah, it has a mild concave to a mild V out the back. I happen to think that around here in these conditions, Shane's board is going to prove to be more versatile than both my Quad and Funboard was.
      On Nov. 5th I gave it another try in big over head junk. It didn't want to turn, so I'm thinking since the two boards are quite similar, maybe I should be starting out with the same combo, 460's on front and 450's on back.
      I've been saving my patched up PsycoFreak for my MBM because of the lack of foam it has.
      I've been getting by with the old wet suit because it never did get much use. One thing I can tell you is that I know it can out last a PsychFreak 4 to 1 at least. I figure I just have to stretch it out a little and maybe it will loosen up a bit. One thing for sure this 6,9 makes it all that much easier. I bet some are saying that the 6,9 is better suited for my age, but then they don't realize that it might seem a little more crowded when I'm around.

Aug. 30th, 2011:
A guy called for my funboard today. I told him, that I'd rather not because I didn't want him in the water with me.

December 15th, 2010:
For the last few weeks, I've been stuck using my old Hotline Brawny 5/4 from 1990. Kinna sucks when the extra weight is something that requires a little more foam on your boards. It's really been a problem for me lately, being under foamed. Never the less, I got my Phyco Freak back today. Yeppee.
Today was about the worst session I've had in a long time. It started out with this longboarder on his bright orange board trying to snake me, so I was letting him take it hopping for another good wave behind it; then he backed off it when he got right next to me.
I said, "Gee, why didn't you just leave me alone!)
He robbed me of the best wave of the day. The rest of the over crowded session was just more of the same crap.

Aug. 30th, 2011:
A guy called for my funboard today. I told him, that I'd rather not because I didn't want him in the water with me.

September 25th, 2010:
For some reason every body is expecting better then the average season. There was a lot of fun going on out there even though they were mostly short rides. It was either hollow or mushy ones.

One of the things I'd like to mention. The two page article in the surfing magazine about what a surfer's personal inspection to how clean the beaches are down in the Gulf coast. It said basically if it isn't smack dab in front of some major motel, it just reeks from the smell of oil. There's not much you can do when you can't see the oil patties burred under the sand.
    As I've wrote under my Environmental column, I happen to think the use of chemical dispersant is the wrong way to go about it. I can't help but wonder just how many oil spills actually happen and nobody is even informed about it. I happen to think that the patties people find are a result of the oil companies trying to make the oil sick so that their problems will go away. But then we sit back and wonder why our coral reefs are dying off Florida. I'd say it was the damn oil fumes that were drifting under the surface of the water instead of on top of it where we have a chance of at least cleaning it up.

And that the hell has a defence contractor such as Halabertion got doing not only ripping off are government but in the oil rig business too? Shit, I can't believe. Folks, I think we are just to stupid to be even trying to drill oil at such depths. That shit is scary.

Now on to part too.
I realize that there are some kind of natural tar pits down by Santa Barbara, but I've run across this tar shit before down a Studios.

This Tar shit. I don't know where it comes from , but if it came from BP or something or another like them, I wish they could stop by and clean this shit off my board for me.

September 19th, 2010:
We can thank God for those waves, today. It was fun just watching you guys. But as one guy said, "He's not suicidal and it's not like its the last wave."

Anyhow, glad to see about the best waves we've seem all summer. And you guys know that if I didn't know better, I would have been out there.

September 18th, 2010:
My Whip expired today. I don't think I broke this one, because you would think I would know when I break a surfboard.

I even took the time to straight line the wax. Got 6 sessions out of her. I guess next time I'll get 3/16 extra on the top deck. To get it in a round tail, I'd probably have to get it in a 6"3" to stay with the same 19.5 with as the 6'2".

This morning, I experienced something, I think I've even heard others say they have experienced the same thing. It's like you are sliding down a water slide, but there is no water. As I was sliding out of a darkness where my dreams were and to the point of being awake, off to side off& the side Angels manage to get a few words to me. Then once I awake, I can only remember so much.
     This morning they assured about what kinna words we don't want to use together. Then I thought. yesterday. Boy I'm glade, I've never been much of a fan of such words.
I imagine that having a sense of humour can only go so far and now I can see the reasoning in it all.

I asked for a taste, he gave it to us, but when he wants to turn it off. it's turned off one way or another.

Yeah, the brake is pretty clean all around,
and it looks like it broke backwards.

What do you think? Could a bottom turn do did it?
Did I keep it?
Yeah.
How often can someone get singled out by this guy?

Update: September 19th, 2010
    Any surfer would know that there would be some kind of dig ;in the board if it was some kind of trick, and the last thing a surfer would do is break his newest stick.

I heard that its a warning sign. And I've got the impression that it's not just for me. I feel I'm not the only who thinks God just may be a little upset.

March 23, 2010:
My Whip had an extra eighth inch of foam and Future fin pockets with Victor AM 450's on the sides and a FAM1 - 460 on the rear.
One thing I noticed is that it is a loose feeling board, kinna like a snowboard, I'm able to slide on the rails if I surf with my front foot. It sure likes the pocket and has no problem getting there. It's quite the radical board so far.


      Monday the 19th of April, I waited around all day for the waist high swell to clean up, and it did. So I took out my funboard just to get wet. Not only should I have noticed that the swell was at least chest high, but the wax on the 6'10" funboard was ancient. Boy what a miserable session, I have the worst sense of balance that board. I should have paddled in and fetched my Whip. I gotta sell that thing.... I would like to get either a 6'8" or a 7'0" M-3 in a tuff-light to replace it. I'm thinking that the 7'0" would make a good longboard for me, but I bet a 6'8" would be a way hotter board.

Helpful Hint:
For when you know that someday your leash will catch on your heal pad and rip it off. I trim mine. I'm also accustomed to a 7 ft leash which eliminates most of the chances that the leash will even snag it. I'm thinking of trying a 6 ft leash on the 6'2" this summer, it may help with keeping my board out from under some other guys board.

So I wanna be

Excerpt From : Sunnyside's Lousy Book

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If you are thinking of taking up surfing because of something I may have wrote here. Please don't, it's too dangerous with all the sharks and things.
There are plenty of surfers already, and we don't need another.

Excerpt From : Sunnyside's Lousy Book

So I wanna be

And if you come to the beach,
PLEASE do not feed the seagulls,
they ended up shitting all over the rocks I'd like to sit on.

And seagulls are dirty creatures;
feeding them will only cause them to fly around dropping lice on people below.

Sam Egan is one of Australia's best shapers.
I've seen many of his boards
and never saw a bad one.

My Synchro-link truck
Check it out at MiniRollOffTrucks.com

Sharky Waters
I didn't even see this warning the day it was sited, but I felt that the conditions did feel sharky the same day just a few miles south while I surfed at the Rock.
I took this picture the day after.

Helpful Hint: on Wax
For those who either reach in the wrong drawer and grab the hard base coat wax instead of the soft cold water stuff. Keep you wax along with it's original label in a zip tight baggy and confusion is less likely to fallow.
Boy I hate it when I do that. Rule No. 4

Helpful Hint:
Traction Pad or Not to Traction Pad
I never did get around to putting a traction pad on my MBM. For two reasons. One, the shaper kinna screwed this board up and gave the right side a little more rocker in the tail. (But I happen to think it fits my skill level more since that means less rocker on my back side.)
    I also learned to think that gum sole booties tend to stick to wax better than to traction pads.
   Since the MBM is my main winter board;
I ended up sticking the pad on my Whip.

My Synchro-link truck
Check it out at MiniRollOffTrucks.com

bird