MyStupidRules.com

Adrenalin: what sports are all about

I found that the front R1 454 fins work great on my new MBM

At 2 5/8 in. it looks a bit thinker than I usually like them but I like it with the late take-of when I dipe the ass-end for that extra bounce onto the wave.

I was gonna buy a 6'4" Flyer in a Tuff-light epoxy, but Channel Islands, "Al Merrick" came out with a Quad - Swallow Tail version of it. I saw one  in a 6'4" x 19 1/2" at the Solana Beach, Surf Ride but it had a ding in it all ready. Then I figured I'd just go to the Oceanside store and have Andy order me one. however, it was coming up on Thursday when the new shipments arrive so I thought I'd take a stroll on in and check out any possibility of one coming in.

And one did. It happened to be a 6'3" x 19 5/8". We ditched the stock fins Channel Islands sent with a board He gave me a discount on another set of the Victor  II 454 fronts and 413 rears. They're that phony glass stuff. All of them are of the foiled fin design and the 413s' are kinna curved. I figure the with the ones people are buying and liking allot.

Update: 6-23-07- Got to try it out in 2 1/2ft. stuff this morning. It floats nice and has a lot of drive. I think this is a hot one folks. I can't wait to try it out in better waves.

6-24-07: had a quad longboarder run into to it at Swamis; he put a crease in my deck.

Sunday July 1st, 2007: Had a good Monday and Friday. But today I actually switched out the fin set for the down the line evening sets. 375 set is fast with drive even in whitewater and getting around sections. The 454 set makes the board go pivital and vertical pocket grabing. It sure kicked my surfing performance a notch. Its like it makes the smaller waves bigger to me. Excellent board.

Check out
Channel Islands Video on the Flyer.
(Just Click)

If you want pivotal vertical moves

If you want fast drive and more like a thruster.

Some of you may wonder why I mount my traction pads a little bit farther forward than most. Well first off: being 6'4" thru 6'10"; they are 4-6" longer than probably than average short board that I see around me. But I also have taken notice: that if a surfer mounts the traction pad too far back, the leash has a lot of opportunity to tare the heal plate up.

6' 10" x 20"        6' 6" x 18-3/4"      6' 6" x 19-1/4"

The 6'10" I a good summer board. but as soon as it hits 3 ft. I pretty much hate it because it doesn't turn like a short board should, even with the smaller Blue Dote fin set.

The 18 3/4" is something I seldom ride unless the waves are overhead and square. It's got a lot of rocker and such a light glass job on it, I'm afraid of dinging it every time I ride it.

The Flyer II is my main board, it's a Surf Tech, Tuff Light surfboard and sometimes I kick my self in the butt for not getting a 6'3". 
        The second day with it, it was real crowded out there and I was going for some wave a little bit later then I should have. The tip bounced off my arm and peeled the tip back and impaled the broken epoxy fiber in to my chin. Part of it is still in there.  
Stupid Rule Number 82

My Next Board may be a 6'4" MBM  because they have a mild rocker and they're showing up with a with of 19 inches. But maybe I'll wait until my gun has seen it's days. The MBM is a high performance board that like to go vertical and hang out in the pocket.
       But then a gain if I get my act together on my gunny board, I might go with a 6'2" K-small because they come in Tuff-light and they are 19-3/8" wide. Too bad you can't get the the tuff-light in a quad. 


I








 

For Earlier Entries
Archives of Adrenalin

The Beginning in 2007
with book excerpt
So I Wanna Be

Second Page 2007-09

The page featuring my Quad

Brazil, I've never been there, but I don't think I'd mind.

For Earlier Entries in Adrenalin

Check out

Origami

Tunes

Book Excerpts

Back to the main Adrenalin page